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The 6 must-haves for your pockets or saddle bag:

• A spare inner tube
• Tyre levers (at least 2)
• A multitool with the essential Allen keys
• A pump or CO2 cartridges
• Something to eat — bars, gels or dried fruit
• Water — never leave without it

Don’t forget the safety essentials: helmet, lights and weather-appropriate clothing.

Every cyclist must be self-sufficient. Don’t rely on others: incompatible inner tube, dead pump battery, forgotten patch kit… And if a piece of glass punctures four tyres at once, the whole ride stops if nobody has their gear.

Communication in a group means safety. Failing to signal a hazard can cause crashes. The basic signals:

• Arm extended right/left — Turning
• Hand raised — Stopping
• Hand moving up and down — Slowing down
• Arm sweeping inward — Move over
• Pointing at the hole or obstacle — Danger on the road
• Circular motion with raised hand — Roundabout
• Hand trembling down low — Gravel

Tip: when the rider in front of you stops pedalling (you hear the clicking), stop too — it’s the first sign of danger.

At FFGVA, nobody gets left behind. That’s our golden rule. If you’re a beginner, you’re not slowing the group down: you’re part of it.

So that everyone enjoys the ride, we often organise our rides by group:

• Rookies (Beginners) (≈ 14–18 km/h) — Perfect for starting out or getting back into it gently. We favour flat routes and photo/coffee breaks
• Intermediate (≈ 18–23 km/h) — For those who ride regularly and like to keep a good pace over time. But we don’t forget the breaks either!
• Advanced (≈ 23–28 km/h and +) — Longer, punchier rides with elevation for those who want to work up a sweat

Still hesitating? Come and try a Social Ride. It’s the perfect format to meet us with zero pressure.

Tip: for your first time, always pick the group below what you think you can do. Better to finish feeling on top of the world than gasping for air!

Smooth flow in the peloton is essential. A few golden rules:

• Never brake suddenly (except in an emergency)
• Look ahead — 2-3 bikes in front of you to anticipate
• Safe distance: never closer than half a rear wheel
• Blind spot: never position yourself alongside the rear wheel of the rider ahead — they can’t see you
• Drafting can save up to 30% energy

Our rides are safe spaces to practise these techniques.

You don’t need a 5,000 CHF race bike to join us. What matters is that it’s in good condition and suited to the ride.

• Road bike — The most common for our road rides. Light, fast, efficient
• Gravel bike — Perfect if you also want to ride on trails. More versatile, wider tyres
• Mountain bike — Great for the forest, but honestly a bit heavy to keep up on tarmac. If that’s all you have, contact us before the ride so we can check if the route is suitable!
• E-bike — Not allowed by default on our rides, but exceptions are possible. Contact us to discuss

What matters: working brakes, tyres in good condition and a clean drivetrain. If you’re not sure, bring your bike — we’ll tell you if everything’s fine.

It’s not the bike, it’s the cyclist who rides it! Whether you have clips or flat pedals, it’s OK. Whether you have a second-hand bike, an entry-level Triban or an ultra-light S-Works, it’s OK. We are inclusive: what matters is the spirit, the effort, and the joy of riding together. We are proud of you!

So, shall we ride together?

The menstrual cycle is a continuous hormonal fluctuation over roughly 28 days that affects strength, recovery, body temperature and mental state.
The goal: push when your body is ready, recover when it needs to.

Phase 1 — Period (winter)

Every woman is different: some feel drained, others break records. The golden rule is flexibility. If you had an interval session planned but you’re in pain, switch to an easy ride or rest. Listen to your body without guilt.

Phase 2 — Follicular (spring)

After your period until ovulation — superwoman mode! Oestrogen rises, energy peaks, recovery is fast. This is the ideal time for your hardest sessions: intervals, sprints, strength, long mountain passes. The body builds muscle more easily during this phase.

Phase 3 — Ovulation (summer)

Around day 14 — often the ideal day to break records. But be careful: ligaments are looser (risk for knees). Warm up very thoroughly. The oestrogen peak combined with a touch of testosterone makes this phase short but intense.

Phase 4 — Luteal (autumn)

The week before your period — endurance mode. Progesterone dominates, body temperature rises (+0.5°C), resting heart rate is higher. Effort feels harder. Stay in zone 2 endurance, hydrate more and avoid intense rides in hot weather.

Tip: FFGVA took part in the “Wilma Gang” talk show about the menstrual cycle and training, and in the “Toutes des championnes?” conference. Knowing your cycle is a real advantage for making progress.

Don’t underestimate thirst, even in cold weather. Physical effort makes you sweat.

• Drink regularly every 15-20 minutes
• Add electrolytes for longer rides
• In winter: drink something warm before and after, add a bit of honey to your bottle
• Never try a new product on race day

For rides over an hour, you need to refuel:

• During: 30-60 g of carbohydrates per hour (gels, bars, dried fruit)
• Eat regularly every 45-60 min — you should never feel hungry
• Tip: if you’re yawning while riding, you need carbohydrates
• Never try a new food on race day
• Recovery: within 30 minutes after the ride, have a carbs + protein mix to restore muscle reserves

The step-by-step guide:

• Shift the chain onto the smallest rear cog before removing the wheel
• Open the quick release (rim brakes) or remove the thru-axle
• Fully deflate, insert a tyre lever opposite the valve
• With a second tyre lever, work around to free one side of the tyre
• Remove the punctured tube, slightly inflate it to find the hole
• Check inside the tyre — remove the object that caused the puncture
• Inflate the new tube just enough to give it shape
• Insert the valve into the rim hole, slide the tube all the way around
• Remount the tyre starting opposite the valve, using your thumbs
• Inflate to the correct pressure

The more you practise, the faster it gets!

The ideal pressure depends on your weight, tyre width and weather — not just the number printed on the sidewall.

• Dry weather: inflate a bit more for speed
• Wet weather: lower slightly for better grip
• Check pressure once a week — tyres naturally lose air
• Inspect the tread for cuts and wear
• The Silca website can calculate the perfect pressure based on your weight and tyres

A clean chain means a drivetrain that lasts. The golden rule in 5 steps:

• Degrease with a good bike degreaser
• Brush with a brush or an old toothbrush
• Rinse with clean water
• Wipe with a clean cloth
• Lubricate — and especially wipe off the excess

Do this every 100-200 km depending on the weather. For reference: 1 hour of rain is enough to wash off all the lubricant.

Even in broad daylight, a bike is small, quiet and easily invisible in traffic — especially against the light, under grey skies, in shaded areas or on wet roads.

• Use front lights with a daytime mode
• Invest in a quality rear light (steady, brake-detection or vehicle-detection)
• On a bike, you’re the most vulnerable — make yourself seen

Gloves are the bulletproof vest for your hands. Beyond comfort and warmth, their main purpose is safety.

In a fall, our first reflex is to put our hands out. Without gloves, your palms are immediately exposed to cuts, scrapes and road rash. A hand injury can keep you off the bike for weeks.

Wear them in all weather — simply adjust the thickness to the temperature.

The pro secret: layering in 3 thin layers.

• Layer 1 — Base: Breathable technical jersey that wicks away sweat
• Layer 2 — Insulation: Thermal jacket that retains heat
• Layer 3 — Protection: Windbreaker or waterproof

Don’t forget a neck warmer, warm gloves and a good warm-up before setting off.

Tip: if you feel warm before leaving, you’re overdressed. Your body generates a lot of heat while pedalling — dress as if it were 10-15°C warmer than the actual temperature outside.

Your helmet is your best friend — never ride without one.

• Size: it shouldn’t move when you shake your head. Too tight = pain, too loose = no protection
• Technology: opt for a MIPS, WaveCel or KinetiCore helmet for extra protection
• Glasses always go on the outside of the helmet straps
• Replace it after any crash where your head made contact, or every 3-5 years

Clipless pedals are the secret to gaining power. They allow better force transfer and use of the muscles at the back of the thigh to pull the pedal up.

To get started:

• Practise clipping in/out against a wall or on grass
• Get into the habit of always unclipping the same foot when approaching a stop
• It becomes automatic after a few rides

FFGVA regularly organises clipless pedal workshops to get started with confidence.

Poor saddle adjustment is the number one cause of pain on the bike. Three parameters to check:

Height: sit on the saddle, place your heel on the pedal at its lowest point — your leg should be fully extended. When you pedal normally with the ball of your foot, you’ll have the right knee bend. Another method: measure your inseam and multiply by 0.883 — that’s the distance from the centre of the bottom bracket to the top of the saddle.

Setback: with the pedal in horizontal position, your front knee should be above the pedal axle. Too far forward = knee pain, too far back = power loss.

Tilt: the saddle should be horizontal. A slight downward tilt can relieve pressure, but too much and you’ll slide forward.

Tip: if you have persistent pain, a professional bike fitting can change everything. As an FFGVA member, you get a discount on bike fitting with our partners.

Before each FFGVA ride, a route is shared (Strava, Komoot or other). Here’s how to read it:

• Distance: in kilometres — start with 30-50 km rides if you’re a beginner
• Elevation gain (D+): cumulative metres of climbing. Less than 300 m = mostly flat, 500-1000 m = hilly, over 1000 m = tough
• Altitude profile: the graph showing climbs and descents. Check whether the climbs are long and steady or short and steep
• Surface: road, trail, gravel — adapt your bike and tyres

Tip: divide the elevation by the distance to estimate difficulty. Less than 10 m/km = accessible, more than 15 m/km = demanding.

Crashes are part of cycling. What matters is reacting well.

Stay calm and don’t get up too quickly. Check that you can move normally — neck, shoulders, wrists, hips — then move off the road if possible.

Before riding again, check your bike: wheels straight, handlebars and saddle aligned, brakes working, derailleur not bent.

See a doctor if the pain or swelling persists, if you feel dizzy or confused, or if your head hit the ground — in that case, also replace your helmet even if there’s no visible damage.

Tip: the ride leader normally carries a first aid kit. A small personal kit (gauze, antiseptic, plasters) takes no space and can save the ride.

In Switzerland, a bicycle is a full vehicle. You have rights — and obligations:

Your rights:

• Ride on the road, even if there’s a cycle path (unless marked as mandatory)
• Ride two abreast on quiet roads
• Turn left from the middle of the lane like cars

Your obligations:

• Obey traffic lights, stop signs and right of way
• Signal direction changes with your arm
• Ride with steady lights (white front, red rear) after dark
• Helmet not legally required, but mandatory for FFGVA rides

In groups (10+ cyclists):

• Outside built-up areas, it’s better to ride two abreast rather than single file — the group is more compact and easier for drivers to overtake

At roundabouts:

• You have priority once you’ve entered the roundabout
• Position yourself in the centre of the lane to be clearly visible
• Signal your exit with your right arm

Tip: when in doubt, ride visibly and predictably. That’s your best protection.